You can book a round-the-island cruise, a turtle or dolphin safari according to season or just sail along the coast. When evening comes, enjoy seafood paella, red snapper or grilled sardines, aïoli bread and the famous Canarian potatoes served with a tangy dressing, Mojo Picon. Finish with a glass or two of Sangria and the night will be sweet.

On the southern tip of the island heading west, the scenery grows truly dramatic. Drive, if you must, along the vertiginous cliff-top road – but the best views are from the sea. You’ll find the ferry rides from Arguineguin to Puerto de Mogan as enjoyable as a cruise. Here, huge sculptured rocks balance on the edge of the cliffs, canyons plunge down to the sea and coves and bays have been turned into holiday dreams. There are white sands brought all the way from Panama, flame trees and giant cacti sprouting out of nowhere and white balconies smothered in blooms climbing through every gap in the cliffs. The ocean shimmers and you are spoilt for choice. Where will you go today? Will it be the idyllic bay of Anfi del Mar, Amadores or Puerto Rico with its sheltered waters and gentle buzz? Or perhaps Puerto de Mogan, the ‘Little Venice’ at the end of the coastal road with its waterways and bridges, lanes lined with flamboyant trees and pretty fishing harbour?

What the south coast lacks in native culture, it attempts to recreate in the theme park of Mundo Aborigen where life-size models depict the daily life of the Guanches. They were farmers and craftsmen, probably from Africa, and the island’s only inhabitants until the end of the 14th century. Today little remains of their culture, save perhaps the local dialect, so different from Spanish, and the widespread earthenware tradition where objects are shaped by hand, without using a wheel.

Children love the park, but there’s plenty more to entertain them within easy driving distance of the coast. Try the Aqua Sur Waterpark, the ‘Far West’ film set of Sioux City where you might meet a stunt man or two rehearsing for the next scene, or the oasis of Palmitos Park tucked at the bottom of a dramatic gorge. It’s well worth a visit for desert scenery and the displays of orchids and cacti, birds and butterflies. There is shade along the paths and cool fountains and waterfalls.

Inland you will find a world of stunning vistas and authentic character. From its circular base, Gran Canaria rises to nearly 6,500ft, like a giant cone where deep ravines and extinct craters radiate down to the sea. At the end of a long, winding road, Pico de las Nieves, the highest point, looks across peaks and ridges bristling with strangely-shaped rocks, the ocean silver in the distance. All around, yellow gorse covers the slopes and sometimes a rare sea eagle circles above the crest. On a clear day, you can see Mount Teide on Tenerife. The Guanches worshipped these rugged lands – but now ramblers haunt the trails.

Far below you see pine forests, meadows sprinkled with poppies and white villages. Here’s Telde, once the Guanche capital; there Artenara with its panoramic restaurant hewn out of rock; Arucas and its blue-black stone cathedral rising among banana groves, or the little town of Teror which draws pilgrims from afar – it’s the home to the Virgin of the Pine, patron saint of the island whose 15th century jewelled effigy is on show in the basilica.

The Madonna couldn’t have chosen a better spot to appear in the pines: Teror is sheer delight, all Canarian-carved wooden balconies, red roofs and immaculate streets. On Sunday mornings a colourful market spreads its wares on the square – anything from religious items to goats’ cheese, spicy chorizo sausage, almonds, oranges, mounds of bread, and cakes and biscuits made by the local monks. Light a candle in the church or pop into the craft shop for pottery, lace or jewellery.

On the coast, back at our villa set amidst hibiscus and oleander, we gaze at the sea and wonder how Columbus could have ever wanted to leave.